Rome-ing Italy and checking boxes

Welcome (or welcome back). This is it. The end of our journey. A trip of a lifetime? Maybe. Hopefully we will return. But it truly will be nothing like this. The last of our 23 days was spent in Rome. 6 nights and 6 full non-stop days in Roma. We’ve gotten lost in Paris https://sassaleeyours.com/getting-lost-in-paris/ , Grabbed what we could in Greece https://sassaleeyours.com/grabbing-greece-a-bruised-cruise/ and now finally we are Rome-ing Italy.

Our first day coming in from the cruise was spent mostly getting to the apartment. Again we chose this over a hotel for location (and the cost). I had originally found a hotel that looked wonderful but they tripled in price during the planning. We stayed near ‘Spanish steps’. A lovely neighborhood that was central to a lot of what we wanted to see.

As in Paris we “got lost” as we ‘romed’ the streets. We felt at home as these streets and their directions made NO sense. What was different was that you definitely had to be aware of where you were walking. Looking up could be hazardous.

Taxis will stop for you at intersections, buses won’t and neither do most of the scooter/motor bikes. We both spent time hauling the other from the street and out of the pathways of oncoming traffic. The roads are cobblestone and are rough and varied in size and completion.

We were lucky enough to discover a lovely restaurant next door. La Baita.

A nice meal and quaint ambiance.

After visiting the Tobacchi shop -for bus tickets we called it a night. Tomorrow would mark our next adventure-The Colosseum

checking boxes

Before we started we were very deliberate with our intentions and expectations in what we would accomplish during this massive trip. 4 countries (ok we had to skip Malta) in what was essentially 21 days. Everyone has an opinion about what you can’t miss, must see and experience. We both agreed that wasn’t necessarily for us. I wanted to understand why I was looking at something. Why were we waiting in line spending money on “this”. We didn’t just want to be checking boxes.

some boxes just need to be checked

In Roma we knew we wanted to see the Colosseum, the Vatican and the Sistine Chapel. We prepared accordingly and purchased our “skip the line” tickets before leaving home. I cannot emphasize enough how important this particular piece of advice is. You still stand in line but at least you get in when you want. The lines were unending for those that waited without tickets.

We used Get Your Guide for the Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palatine Hill. Excellent company, organized, good communication, mapped directions and yes, guided. http://www.getyourguide.com I cannot say enough about the guide. She was knowledgeable, entertaining and patient with us as we explored, oohed and ahhed.

colosseum

Nothing can prepare you for this. The Colosseum was originally known as an amphitheater that was built by the rulers, for the people. There was no entry fee. Of course the rulers got the best (and designated/numbered seats) but all were welcome.

Here they provided entertainment. Albeit gruesome and deadly, it was a different time.

72 A.D – 80 A.D. was when it was constructed. Today we still use the archways and number systems for our own coliseums. So much we still use and so much yet preserved. Rome strives to repair the ruins when and where they can but what is left is testimony to the brilliance of that time.

One funny aside, we saw the remnants of one of the 1st public toilets. They were marble slabs with holes carved- one after the other and side by side. No doors or segregation. (I admit that I had the thought that some of the bathrooms I had encountered thus far in Italy had not evolved much-but we will get to that later).

rome-ing some more

We had been advised by one of the locals to save our energy and not walk the 2 miles from the apartment to the Colosseum. I wanted to walk thinking this was nothing. Lesson learned-listen and heed. Getting there would have been easy but there are hills and steps everywhere! We did ride the bus to get there and at the end we were glad that we did.

Probably the only steps we didn’t climb that day

We arrived at the Tiber.

and the town of Travestere.

(our goal had been to stroll along the Seine in Paris, the Tiber in Rome and the Arno in Florence-we did it all!)

I had read about a community that was touted as being eclectic and interesting. They called it Travestere. This particular visit was a little disappointing but that was on us. We only saw the back alley. We returned later in the week and it did not disappoint.

searching for the source

From every vantage point I was fascinated from a distance and finally up close with the figures and carvings I could see on a “building”. There is so much to see and experience in Rome but this particular place intrigued me.

As is much of Rome, this particular monument, yes one building constructed in honor of Emanuel the II called Vittoriano, is in a piazza. It is so vast that I could see the top of it from over 2 miles away.

Up close it was mesmerizing. I could have easily taken 50 photos and not captured everything that is going on in this one piece.

trevi fountain

This was only .7 of a mile from the apartment so we left it towards the end of the day. We had already experienced SO much. Rennie and I were walking along, talking. I turned a corner and literally my jaw dropped.

I might have almost shed a tear. The water is seafoam green and pure.

(side note:Italy has the cleanest drinking water than anyone in the world. They have ancient stone fountains throughout the city that you can fill your bottle or cup)

I will only say this, as I refuse to get into politics BUTTTTT-the idiots who jumped into this sacred place and poured black dye into it should be prosecuted, jailed and banished from this city. (This occurred the day after we left). Shame on you hypocrites! [o.k.-stepping off of my soapbox]

Next day..

the vatican, sistine chapel and st. peter’s square

I went directly to the source to book this one. https://www.museivaticani.va/content/museivaticani/en.html

Europe (or at least Paris and Rome) make it super easy to book with them. And you cut out the middle man. They provide electronic tickets, emails with immediate confirmation and receipts.

Once again their organization was excellent and all aspects navigable. Just as with Get your guide, the guide for this tour was the best part of the ‘business’. Because of the rules and sanctity of the Sistine chapel (no talking and no photos at all) the guided portion for the chapel came first before we entered the Vatican.

the creator

Everyone has heard of Michelangelo whether you are an art lover, history buff or not. This was so much more than that. We learned about the personality, idiosyncrasies and peculiarities of this tremendous artist.

Did you know that paint was not his 1st choice of medium and really resented being asked to create using it? Some of the pieces that he was “commanded” to do by the emperors and Popes reflected his feelings on the subject. (note that none of the figures in the Sistine chapel have clothes) his way of showing his displeasure.

not enough words

We spent hours touring. The Vatican now is a museum that houses a tremendous amount of art and of course history. At one time it was the home of the cardinals, bishops and the pope. Raphael, another artist, loved Michelangelos work. And although he was a huge figure in the Renaissance period on his own, he was asked to complete some unfinished work of Michelangelo after his death, as well as creating many pieces that struck an amazing likeness (in technique) to what had been done previously. They say that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery so I guess he loved him alot.

when pictures speak louder than words

Two sides of faith as portrayed byMichelangelo- Religion and Philosophy

concluding our tour

We loved the Sistine chapel but of course could take no pictures. The ceiling reflects a lot of the teachings of the bible starting with the creation of Adam and Eve. St. Peter’s cathedral and the square where 100,000 people gather when the pope speaks, was next. I have to say that in my very humble opinion these last two while magnificent, paled in comparison to the Vatican.

a little more of our day

Have I mentioned that we walked a lot? After spending the first part of our day at Vatican city we traveled on to the Pantheon

Spanish steps (165 stairs one way)

from afar closer view from above

day of rest and a few “housekeeping” items

We kept traveling and exploring but without a particular goal in mind.

(some random street art)

I learned a new word! Coperto- it is a surcharge in Italy that entitles you to sit in a restaurant. Yep, and you only know about it after the fact. You can see it listed in very, very fine print on some menus. This is supposedly to cover the cost of the bread that is ‘gratis’. It isn’t managed by any one factor. Some may not charge it, some may only levy 2% but it can reach as high as 20%-so beware!

food

As I have mentioned, Italians treat eating as a process. Their menus reflect this as there are multiple courses to choose from. In my research before we arrived I was given the impression that this was sacred. We tried initially to order from each section but ended up cancelling some courses before they arrived due to the sheer volume of food. Ultimately, we ordered one thing from each and then split it all.

bad information

I either was misinformed or had some old data. Italy, who is known for taking their time over meals and more importantly spending an hour drinking a one and a half ounce cup of coffee, oddly enough, has coffee bars where I swear people stand at the counter choking down coffee and whatever else they have decided to partake of. It takes fast food to a whole new level.

In a lot of places they will ask you if it is Take-away or for dining inside. We did try the street food in one place on our day of rest and it was yummy

setting dining priorities

Mostly we chose to dine in. Not because we were too good to eat the street food or wanted to spend 50-70 Euros for a meal each time, but the real, comic, tragic reason was we needed a place to pee!

People! There are virtually NO places to pee.

If you are lucky enough to find one it will cost you (yes, pay to pee) 1-2 euros. And it is exact change only!

During one desperate episode we finally found a place (look for water closet or WC). It was just this. A single Euro- no change no other coins. We were scrambling to find the coins when I exclaimed that I would be creating an accident if searching continued. Rennie being the gentleman he is gave me the Euro and waited.

When I exited I found him standing there smugly. They took credit cards! You guessed it. Our cheapest and ONLY purchase on that card. A single Euro to pee.

(one UN-fun fact. Toilet seats are a luxury. Most don’t have them so be prepared.) Toilet paper is another commodity. I had tissues and wipes at all times with me.

I told Rennie that between the stairs, the hills and squatting over toilets with no seats, you should be able to bounce a quarter off of my backside by the time we got home.

back to the food…

The food wasn’t what we expected overall. We had a few things that we liked but I never tasted garlic or spices and I guess because of the region tomato sauce was few and far between as well.

La Baita was consistent as we did go there twice. We had dinner at La Cantinola de Livia. Good food, sweet old guy that waited on us but the coperto was 10%-RIDIC!

Our best meal was when we went back to Travestere. Saw more of the town and found this wonderful little place that made the wait worth it. Don Re– Three appetizers, 3 local beers for 25 Euros. The rice ball (Suppli’) was heavenly! Tomato sauce, mozzarella and spices. Oh! and no coperto!

beverages

We had Grappa in Santa Marinella (it didn’t grab me) and discovered that Limoncello is NOT all created equal.

The wine was sublime. I never had a bad glass of wine anywhere on this trip. I mostly ordered the house wine but even the bottled was reasonably priced. ($4-15$ usually).

day 5 -back to touring

We had purchased tickets (again before leaving home and directly from the train station) but this time using a site called Rome2Rio. https://www.rome2rio.com

I strongly recommend that you check out this site before making decisions and arrangements for traveling within Italy. We used the fast train Frecciarossa. It travels up to 200 mph. We clocked it at 186mph during the ride to..

florence

This was my day. I can’t really explain why Florence, but I had an insatiable need to see and experience it. And an added bonus was it was where the Renaissance period originated. Gotta love being with my Renaissance man where it all started.

Galleria degli Uffizi, Piazza del Duomo, Piazza del Signoria and finally Galleria dell’Accademia. Those were the biggies.

I loved the Uffizi, was underwhelmed at the Accademia (maybe had already seen too much?) and was ecstatically, tearfully moved and awed with the piazzas. They were like outdoor unwalled museums.

This place was like a fairytale

Del Duomo

Piazza outside of the Uffizi

Ponte Vecchio and the river Arno

and last but certainly not least the original statue of David

last day

We did what we had learned to do best. We wandered. This time we purchased tickets for a hop on and off and went around to all the sites that we had walked to. Looking one last time before heading back to Paris in the a.m. for our flight back home.

Gods and goddesses, fairytales and fantasy. No matter what your beliefs (or not) how can we equate the talent, knowledge, beauty and history that is Rome, Florence, Italy? I don’t know how any mere mortal could have possibly had that insight and ability to create.

I suppose in our way somehow that we have those that exist in this century considering technology. But query, will what we do and create now be the bones, the backbone for the world centuries from now? Just wondering.

I hope that you have enjoyed this journey as I have enjoyed taking you with me. Next week I’ll return with a little Sarcasm, a little Solace and a little Sentiment or as you know it- Just a little -S.A.S.S.

Let me hear from you my friends. For now I am as always…

Sassaleeyours


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